Nug.
Armando, the only other guy who paddled out.
Wednesday Rincon 3/8/17 Down right chilly last night… Surfed a crazy little nug south of town. This wave has such perfect form, Imagine that Anna Maria peak on crack… Im not interested in 10ft Tres Palmas but I ll take chest high barrels any day. 1 other guy paddled out. Half a dozen guys sat there for an hour and watched it… I guess it was not big enough. The wave slabs on a shallow reef, the tide was low… It looks small but the face is not so small, Im going back today…
Tuesday Rincon 3/7/17: One more day of wind and rain. It’s been big and messy but there are gems to be found. Late week should be good with LP swell and conditions cleaning up. Another smaller swell is due on Monday now. Below is a shot from today (Tuesday 3/7).
Caribbean Life Blogger: It went from being flat/knee high all weekend to about 10-foot on Monday. Lots of cold and stormy weather for the Caribbean. It got down to 64 windy and rainy, grey… I love it! Little Malibu was the spot yesterday but it got crowded. I had to work all day (guests checking in) and by the time I got done there was barely any light left so I went back to the shorebreak close to home and it was super fun breaking father out than I had ever surfed it, a chip shot early entry, mid break all the way to shore, couple really good barrels. I’m so glad to have that option. This morning the normally blue ocean has turned brown from all the stormy weather. This is supposed to last a couple more days. This is our 2nd stretch of cold rainy windy WX this winter. Probably the last but I love it. Sad Note: Brian Ward, an older Rincon snow bird from Long Island had a heart attack and passed away at Marias yesterday. He was super well attended to. They tried so hard to save him(CPR in the water and land) but he wouldn’t come back, RIP. Appreciate every day of life…
Kathy Engstrom at Lilttle Malibu on Monday.
Rincon options south of Lil Malibu.
Little Malibu on Monday morning. Photo: M-Dub.
The best surfer to ever come out of WFL surfing small waves in the Caribbean today.
Corona Pro Domes 2017: Another year gone by with our local Pro contest getting no surf. There has been waves every weekend until now. Honestly the people who live here in Rincon, most everybody stays away. The vast majority, a lot of people from other parts of the island come to party. It’s a mess and a flesh fest. I planned on going to the contest but with no surf in the forecast I just stayed at home away from the scene and waited and waited and waited thinking this swell was going to show at some point. Cory kept making heat after heat so I went to go check it out on Sunday afternoon. I parked at Pools and hiked all the way over to Domes, a beautiful walk… Cory was surfing really light on his feet, getting more turns in than most anybody in waves that looked like IRB. He finally got knocked out in the quarter-finals but he did really good. Brian Toth is a water bug. It’s like he has a motor on the back of his board. He was going faster and farther than anybody in absolutely no surf. I mean it was crazy, mind blowing, like the best Florida Surfer. How Brian Toth did not make the championship tour I have no idea. He came within Mega micro points of it at Sunset Beach last year and he was Puerto Rico’s best chance to get somebody on the tour. There’s nobody else even close and now Brian says he’s not doing the QS’ anymore so that’s pretty much it… but Brian pretty much shows up, goes a hundred miles an hour and collects his check for 10,000 bucks about every contest. He really looks way faster than anyone else and he can do massive snaps and airs on shin high waves(in person he’s short and light, not a trace of fat on his body). It’s insane, it’s his own will, his own fire, his own ambition. I mean he was pumped up to win, you could tell by his body language he was in his element, emotionally charged, wanting to put on a show and it showed. I was very impressed. I guess if he had the power of Zeke Lau and somebody else bumped somebody off he would have made the tour but no Puerto Rico does not have a CT Surfer and PR is not going to have a surfer on the CT anytime soon. Life is way too easy here. There’s too much crazy stuff to get into. There’s so many distractions. No angst, no competition, hate, all the anger you need to compete at that level. Nobody could ever be a CT pro surfer here and we don’t have any machine like crazy beach breaks like the Brazilians do that breed World Tour Talent. Puerto Rico surf is almost 100% from ground swells so it’s doesn’t seem to be as consistent as it should be so no CT surfers from PR anytime soon.
Distractions Galore.
Brian Toth blowing up in the finals.
from Russ, Saturday night I think: Finally made it to the East Coast on a great day. We stopped, and surfed 8th st first, a friend was meeting us there and had already paddled out. It was fun for a short time, and then turned into a really good looking longboard wave. We then went into Satellite and SCORED at Hightower Park. At one point I scored a fairly long backside barrel, and then did a chip shot entry, bottom turned with a bit of stall, and then leaned forward under a lipp, and sped out to the face. A quick drive through frontside barrel to a fun turn. I was having the time of my life out there. Then we ate a late lunch, and I felt like I was DONE. Decided to head home, but wanted to take a quick look at the waves again. We checked the Boardwalk, and DAMN if it wasn’t pretty empty, and still firing glassy A-frames of turquoise water. Went out for another 2 hours of fun lines in both directions. I was so stoked that I was wide awake until midnight last night. 🙂
From Higgy: surfed 16th st yesterday, scored chest to head high clean waves, was out for 4 hours so my arms are hurting today, but it’s a happy pain
Yes, last Saturday in Brevard was the best surf I’ve caught in a very long time. Surfed at Pineda Park 8 till 2 and left exhausted with it still offshore and firing. Florida perfection for sure 🙂
Micah – did you see this ? what is the real story ? Gracias
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/it-feels-like-everything-we-care-about-is-falling-right-out-of-our-hands-says-gaby-escudero-puerto-rico-surfin_145666/
Evy thanks for checking in. I miss when your not around! thanks!
Wow, the sucks for PR, prob the same greedy FL developers that screwed this state, then on CR, now Nica, etc. In other words business as usual. My son was down there a couple weeks back staying with friends in Isabella and sez they got pumping surf from middles down past wildo, lots of secluded spots if you know where to look, which I do not.
The development of the coastlines is sad and not sustainable. Our manipulation of this dynamic geographic feature is laughable and futile at best. Mother Nature will continue to erode our efforts at her will.
There is enough swell in the water at the moment at Nokomis Beach that I suspect there is a thigh high wave at the best Spot somewhere today.
Yeeeeew! Someone please go surf the South East side of the Skyway today and take pictures. I bet it’s rideable with all this wind. It’s yet to be done.
Good Morning – Good Report – been in drydock ALL winter – not whining, but that Red Tide is not my friend…..lots of Life crapola too – I have got to get on a board – need a serious brain refresh