Saturday Surf stories… – MW… Saw your post this AM. Was going to send some comments in from the other day. Took a day or 2 to scout out where we could get the boat out and anchored up to score some surf. Found a spot near ××××÷÷**+ just south of the ****÷+×× Island boundary. Zoomed into the map it goes by “*** ****.” Slowly motored up into this little cove and anchored up in thigh deep water, not sure of what we’d find thru the path to the beach, but we scored waist to chest high typical cold front surf! Just me and a friend for 3 hours. Took a few drifts and got out while we could. Not epic but the entire experience was awesome and well worth it! Hope you and the family are well down there!
I was hoping for some cool surf stories like: ‘I snuck thru a condo and scored a spot I hadn’t surfed in years’ type deal but the comments they’ve taken a political turn. I don’t want to be accused of censoring but I’m shutting them down for now while everyone cools off. I hope my words below provide comfort to 1 person even if they anger others. Hang in there guys it could be worse(see picture above).
Friday 4/3 8:30am WFL Take a deep breath… Focus on what’s important, life. Stop right now and count all the good things you have going and give thanks. Seems to be the day that everyone goes into mourning over loss. So whatever you’ve lost try and step back. I hate to tell everyone but the virus is super real. Its’ all over the world, its super contagious and it makes your lungs so you can’t breathe and many people are dying and many more will daie if things dont change. the question is what’s more important the economy or lives. That’s what the choice is so take a deep breath. As surfers, you guys are already part of a counter culture so your going to be ok you will get through this. Words of an ancient prophet: “Your strength will be in keeping calm and showing trust.”
Still watching some cool looking set-ups for next week. It’s encouraging that this has been showing up on consecutive runs. We will keep an eye on it.
CNN article on Surf Photography
Things to do for Social Distancing: Read old surfer mags, fix and clean your surfboards, read ‘Barbarian Days’ for the 4th time, watch old surf movies, garden, cook healthy, exercise, skate. Try and stay active.