Awesome barrel and super long carve on a triple OH bomb...
Friday 6am: Cold fronts are forecast to lock up in the Western gulf. A gradient between high pressure in the ATL and lower pressure off Texas will make for solid south winds in the Yucatan Channel on Sunday. Some south swell with 8-9second periods will arrive in WFL for Monday am. Official forecast is knee to thigh with waist high sets on Monday at best south facing beaches. These small south swells usually don't make it into normal beaches like those in mid Pinellas but the best south facers will have ridable surf 90% sure. Confidence is much higher today as models have come into agreement 54hrs before the fetch is forecast to set up. In the extended the pattern locks in. Could this be the start of a beautiful thing? Summary: A chance for a line on Sunday but it seems too early. Monday knee to waist high with 10knt south winds. Tuesday knee to waist high with 10knt SSW winds. Wednesday: Knee to thigh with offshores. Thursday: down day but a chAnce for more gulf troughiness at the end of the period.
Drug Aware: 3 nights in a row watching the Box? Unbelievable action... Back in the day pro surfers got paid for the Huntington Hop. Who could surf 2ft mush the best. On all those bank security questions it says "What is your dream profession?" How many of us wrote the answer: Pro Surfer? Now we may need to go back and change that as few of us could surf the Box. Almost unridable, looking for that 1 out of 10 wave that hits that slab reef just perfect. Horrific wiperouts from CJ and Melling... So great to see old man Slater in his 40's just slaying the Box and Margies. I was always a guarded Slater fan until now. Now that he's an underdog I want him to win for sure!
Caribbean: Who ever thought PR would have cooler WX than FL? Atlantic Mixing and NE trades brought gorgeous WX to the Caribbean this week. Highs in the low 80's and lows in the upper 60's with a fresh breeze. Rainy season has started early with crystal clear mornings and daily down pours at 3pm every day. The land is lush and green again after an abbreviated dry season. Yellow-fin and Black-fin tuna are basically jumping into the fisherman's boats two miles offshore Domes with insane catches everyday. Everyone has fresh tuna. I've decided April is my favorite month down here. Down week for surf but that's ok. It's about to turn on for sure and if you happen to be coming down next week it's going to be impossible not to score. LP NNE swell from two storms with waves all week and SE trades as we get the pull from major storms in the North Atlantic. Middles and Survival will be the spots. Im hoping for glassy mornings at Indy's. That place loves LP NNE.