Wednesday 1/18 5am WFL: Looking like a banger to say the least. Storm of the year coming... Sunday night could have some tornadoes. NWS is not saying it yet but this one is looking gnarly. The GFS has it 990mb! Stalling for 12 hours over Tennessee, an Appalachian snow storm. The SE has not seen a storm like this in awhile. Ok Surf: Sunday night looks to be when the gnarly squall comes in. Let's back track. Still calling Friday knee to thigh at best south facers by lunch time... Saturday knee to waist with chest high surf later Saturday possible, that maybe the best time to surf with south wind blockage could be fun, some Yucatan juice mixed with local surf, Saturday PM. Sunday head high with 20-30knt straight onshore winds. The door stays open so I don't see a clean up at this point. Maybe briefly behind the squall? Get ready to surf there could be waves all next week if this verifies another low follows the Sunday/Monday low.
Note: You guys have been super good to me and many of you just donated at the end of 2016. Thanks so much. I just got the bill from Canon on what it's going to cost to fix my 7d, $317.00. So if anyone has been holding out thinking about it maybe you can help me with the unexpected expense. It's for a good cause and to keep the photos coming. I'm going to forecast and report my butt off over the next week/10days with these systems bringing you guys surf. I'll be on it with the early report. I will be back in WFL in February to visit my 93yr old father in law. Hopefully I can time a cold front and surf with you guys. thanks everybody!
Monday WFL 7am, Big changes evolving in the latest GFS runs. The Texas lows we talked about last week are deepening. The one for next weekend bottoms out over Kentucky in the latest runs. If this verifies the eastern US and eastern plains states are in for a big storm and the SE will get a ton of strong SW and W flow. Waves next weekend are looking more certain. Friday looks 1ft south line with a chance for knee to thigh rideable wind waves at best south facers. The same for Saturday as south winds ramp up all the way to Honduras and western Cuba and the Yucatan. That puts solid south swell on the beach next Sunday but with 20 knt SW winds as the low digs in. Confidence is good but check back on Tuesday. Next Forecast: Tuesday.
Monday 1/16 in PR: The forecast for this weekend and next week look really good LP NNE on the way.
The surf has been really good here in Rincon, Puerto Rico. There have been a lot of options for catching a fun wave. A solid NNE swell is coming later next week around the 26th. We have every type of accommodation here from resorts to camping on the beach. Many people are tenting it at Domes and Maria's. Jet blue has fares next week from MCO to BQN $260RT. Quality surfboard rentals are available here. I can put you on good surf and get the shot. Let me know. email@example.com
El Ninyo vs. La Ninya in the Caribbean
Caribbean Life Blogger, The Yin and Yang of El Ninyo/ La ninya: When I visited St Croix back in June for a convention I met old timers from almost all the Leeward Islands. One common theme stood out as we talked about the weather: 2015 and the first part of 2016 was across the board the hottest stretch any of them had ever seen. Very uncomfortable. We're talking about Islands like Tortola, St Thomas, St Kitts where these people had lived for 80 years and a lot of times w/o electricity to keep a fan going. The wind in the Caribbean that keeps the WX so liveable and comfortable is the Bermuda high, the trades that blow NE in the winter and SE in the summer. El Ninyo got rid of the Bermuda high and replaced it with long term Atlantic low pressure. A year ago the Caribbean was hot and humid with south winds in January. This is good for surfers when they are surfing it opens up more spots to surf along northern coasts. On land the sweat fest never stops. In short El Nino made life in the Caribbean very uncomfortable. Not too many people have a/c so the only relief is swimming or those rare 3 hours in the day when the local sea breeze fires up. I remember looking at the buoy in Hawaii with 20-30knt trades going 'that's what we need'. Well now the weather has flipped and we are experiencing cooler than normal WX. I asked an 80 yr sister in our congregation the other night who grew up in the mountains of Mayaguez if she had ever seen such a cool, rainy stretch of weather and she said 'no'. For me, it's absolutely amazing, delicious. The high has been 77 every day here at my house, a few degrees below normal. In the evening, watching the sunset from the balcony it's like 70 with a stiff breeze and the temp bottoms out in the mid 60's with a constant NE breeze, we love it. Weather U said La ninya is dead. Whatever the case El Ninyo came late and stayed long. It took a while to kick in and OT to kick out. While I was in St Croix a huge high pressure moved into the ATL and the heat finally broke at the end of June 2016 as the trades came back at 15-20. Islanders breathed a huge sigh of relief. El ninyo was over int the Caribbean.
Here's one Natty got of Darren at the shorebreak:
Last week was one of the best weeks of surfing I've had here. I surfed so many out of the way spots. The shore-break was super fun early in the week. Lots of tube riding. Saturday night at Fish Market every wave was drop in and get tubed. After awhile I started to relax and enjoy the barrel instead of surfing to rush out of it. That was super cool. When I closed my eyes at night and all I saw were tubes. I was so satisfied I didn't even think about surfing on Sunday.
Saturday Fish Market: We drove around for an hour and almost paddled out at Tres but WJ's board was too small so we went all the way down to Fish Market and stumbled onto this. It was so fun, lots of perfect little right barrels. Great way to cap off a great week of surf.