Three hours of Waves-w/no-Fangs…..no rips…..no pitches….easy peasy drops and down the line — no fear, only pleasure,…..completely relaxed and in partnership with water –MotherNature. Riding each wave with a knowing I could possibly wait 2 years for just such a perfect set-up to happen again …or *bigsmile* I could see a repeat in 2 weeks,,, delighting in the mind-games one experiences interacting with the untamed forces of nature.
As always, I was more or less alone feasting on those waves, my hunger was initially insatiable — the mer-girl released from dry-dock riding every wave possible, re-fueling & recharging every cell in my body, hydrating my soul & spirit with life. Every Fly-Away an intoxicating dose of liberation.
The shoreline was crowded with folks – so alone was relative – I either looked 100% Kook or I had some nice drops and down the line long board rides worthy of photos – I have learned to always do a quick glance at the bikini top to ensure no ooopsies -that said, there were moments of knowing after years of practice – the ol grey mare simply nailed it.
Observant, I noticed a young girl watching me with focus – She was a tough little critter, taking waves full on in the face – a solid tumble body surfing….. being satiated of waves –I felt the desire to share. Paddling over to her Mom, I asked if her daughter agreed, would it be ok for her daughter to belly ride the board. Mother and daughter agreed – The young girl was a natural and we played together for a while. Afterwards the mother came up to me and thanked me — she told me her daughter is a walking miracle, finally recovered from liver transplant, to watch her daughter have this experience meant the world to her and her father. God is Good.