Wednesday Update Below
Wednesday 7am WFL Bad News Surf Forecast: The cold front for tomorrow is really backdoor. Not really any N winds expected from LA over to WFL it’s all NE winds. Wave models show a 1ft N line tomorrow that may be loggable on the right time and tide, shin to knee high, not sure what time of day probably PM. It will be clean and very small if anything. And then that’s it, flatspell time. La Ninya is super flexing right now to begin December and puts a blocking high over the SE US basically and sends a rapid fire jet up and over and into the ATL where low pressure is forecast to form NE of PR making for super windy, cool, stormy, big surf WX here in PR. This pattern sets up and every High just rides up over this SE US bubble and swings into the left behind the fronts making for backdoor-backdoor-backdoor, NE wind fronts. Not a good pattern. The forecast looks so bad I’m not even going to ask for donations, but thanks so much to the guys who helped out recently. These guys still take care of me even when the surf is bad, thanks so much, much appreciated.
Sad News in PR: So we had some young guys visit from a congregation in J-ville, twenty something worker guys who come to help out in PR and they want to surf so they got in touch with me to make it happen. I had never met them before but they are super cool. I meet them at the Rincon lighthouse and we go to check Domes from Deadmans and it’s like 6-8ft and windy and stormy and I never for a second thought to take these guys out there. I don’t know their skill set. I’d rather surf clean Doggies with them than that stormy mess. We are checking out Dead’s and it’s getting big and gnarly so we took off for Doggies, had a great session. They both caught solid head high waves and we were stoked. Come to find out not long after we left a 26 yr old kid from Cali drowned right there. 5 guys tried to pull him out of Deads in solid 6ft angry surf and they could not bring him back. He had been under too long, all these local guys are really good at CPR. One thing that sucks about PR is we have no lifeguards like Hawaii to warn people, no flags, not even signs to warn anyone and the ocean goes from tranquil to freaking upset and down right angry, rivers of rips and someone drowns every year. And now we have tons of windy 10ft surf on the way for next week and hopefully no-one drowns again but it was crazy to check the exact spot where the guy drown a couple hours before with my new friends from J-Ville…
What if we go all PR for the next week or 2 while the gulf is sleeping with strong offshore flow?