Summer 2018 and surf board talk

Lets talk twins…

WFL Tuesday: Wow, August is flattening out! Doldrums and horse latitudes, nothing going on. I would say check the EC forecast but they were not looking too good to me either. Good time to get away. How sick is Centro? If you had a free ticket between Bocas in the Caribe and El Sal on the Pacific, which would you choose? A buddy just got back from Nica and scored big time, nobody around with conflict going on in that country. Boards- So with no waves now till late August let’s talk about boards. I’ve started riding mid lengths now bc the waves where I live in Rincon are so slopey. The only time I ride shorty is when it’s LP and good. If it’s waist to chest and not barreling the mid length is so fun and kind of straightens out my style and makes it so easy to paddle and catch waves early down in the Caribbean and it’s not like I’m so rad on short-board that anything I want to do on 5’10 I can do on a 7’0. It would be different in dumpy beach break. Which brings us to twin fins. I still love twins. I have 2, a RNF and a Mod Retro, love em both… I am off keel fins and onto AM twins and it makes a huge difference. Twins are the best boards for skatey flow. Twins have no drag, they just fly on the wave. Have you seen Surfline’s guide to twin fins? That is a meaty guide that will take awhile to get thru but how good does Josh Kerr looks on a twin fin? Sick! Have a great day dreaming of boards… Check out all the sick twins at the Compound!

Leaning into the RNF at Spanish Wall during a hurricane swell in PR.


Twin finning in AMI. Photo: Mo.



Mid-Lenghts-
This is a 7’0 at Domes in January.


Tropical Waves.

Friday 8/31 in Isabela: Really fun waves, surprising. So good to get back in the water after a long drought and my 1st time going to Isabela all summer. This is ENE trade swell 3.6ft at 8 seconds and 10-15knt trades. SS was bigger than Jobos but Julie got some long ones at Jobos, stoked.

Burger.

Julieta at Jobos.

set wave


Secret Spot was really fun, could have surfed for hours but Julie wanted to surf Jobos so no worries. Maybe head up here next week for the storm swell.




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57 thoughts on “Summer 2018 and surf board talk

  1. KB

    Had a great sup sesh yesterday when it glassed off with only minimal people. Storms rolled thru with lots of electricity so we decided to wait it out as to live another day. Afterwards it was clean w long lines. Tides were extreme due to new moon phase. Definitely worth the wait w only a couple of friends to score knee to waist high peelers. Wish u could have seen it. Classic plus sandbar is getting better so bring on the storms.

  2. JDH

    I went to Charleston SC over the weekend and of course it’d be flat. I was there to visit family, so on Saturday we went to Isle of Palms. Half a foot of dribble with 20-25 mph of onshore wind and it did not pick up all day, it was the craziest thing. The winds were blowing onshore for a ways out and if that was wind in the Gulf, there’d be more to ride.
    There were more waves Gulfside than there were there with less wind. Hmm…
    While there I was hanging out on the sandbar when I first got there and got raked by a jelly. Went for a walk later up to the pier and swam out to the low tide sand bar, was out for 30 seconds and another jelly got me good and I had enough. That beach didn’t like me and I wasn’t the biggest fan anyways.
    Its not east Florida and its the OBX and the sand was quite muddy. It surely isn’t the beautiful uniqueness of the Gulf.
    I know now just to bypass that southern region of south Carolina and head straight to NC.
    From all the pics and video of SC I’ve seen, in my opinion it breaks way better from Jax to SFl.
    There’s a perfect novelty wave set up right on the side of Fort Sumter on an east southeast swell, though. Wonder if anybody surfs it. Takes a boat or a long paddle to get to it from Folly Beach.

  3. admin Post author

    thanks man for the report. yeah PR does not get good wind-swell either it can blow 25 in Rincon and if there is no swell there will be nothing
    I’ve never heard gulf surf called ‘beautifully unique’ but thet’s poetic and in it’s own way I agree…
    Still stoked on my adopted home at least the ocean is clean so far and the waves will eventually come back
    in the mean time it’s a slower island life, closer to the earth in my opinion. the negative reports about PR bum me out
    there is so much good there…

  4. John Irving

    Good afternoon,

    My name is John and I have grown up surfing Sand Key park for 20 years back in the day when don burns was a lifeguard. I remember as a kid sitting out the back of the key before it was the zoo with you, Brandon, and bill hanging all day catching big bowls outside on a good nw swell on second buoy. I saw all that because I am leading a mission team down to Peurto Rico this September 27-October 5th as we are tearing off three houses in the missionary camp the roofs and redoing them I was wondering on my off day if you are close to Carolina and Lodging in Villa Verde Inn where we are staying would left to call ch some outsiders in your neck of the world. Let me know Praise God my email is Irvjo0511@yahoo.com

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