Monthly Archives: September 2021

Hurricane Sam Swell in Puerto Rico 2021 Round 1

John Purdy at Surfers on Saturday.

Wipe-out.


Caribbean Carnage- Friday Report from the Sam Event: A tourist man drowned snorkeling Steps with his wife on Wednesday. They are still searching for the body. Wednesday had strong swell in that area. Nobody knows but when there is ground-swell Steps has the nastiest rip, no signs, no lifeguards.
Surfing with my kids has not been a relaxing casual surf for me… They are doing great but they are not the strongest paddlers in the world and duck diving 6ft waves is tough also. I have to keep such an eye on them. I make sure we have fresh leashes every year and tough little strings to attach them to the boards. My big wave boards all have 2 leash plugs and big wave leashes. I’m not screwing around. I have a ton of respect for the Atlantic Ocean when she gets pissed off sometimes. The shore-break has been treacherous. Sam’s swell was so strong some of the sets have had like 6-8 waves in each set at 12 seconds apart and they can beat down the kids on the inside. Wrong place/wrong time: 4-6ft and 1 of my kids got caught inside at the lower part of the Mix and pinned against the rocks. I was there in a flash to help her. Then her leash got wrapped around a rock underwater and she couldn’t move. 4ft surge kept hitting her every 12 seconds. I calmly told her ‘breathe’. She was going under every 12 seconds. I saw her head trying to break the surface, finally she popped up. I told her ‘breath’ then ‘undo your leash’ (we were both getting pounded). Then I moved in and grabbed her board- she was free finally and there was a very small, tiny piece of beach and I told her to run. There is a rock in the shore-break shaped like an anvil- not joking OMG we almost got smashed on it. After that, we rest on the beach catch our breath- inspect the damage… “I can laugh about it now but at the time it was terrible” Final Results- just cut up feet, an urchin in her hand. Even the boards missed being smashed on the anvil into splinters by like inches. To top it off we go surf last night at Domes and understand in Florida the lightning comes at the beginning of the t storms… Weirdest thing: Here the lightning comes after the rain. Full on gnarly electrical storm. 30 guys out at Domes as massive bolts start pegging the ocean seconds apart and all you see is tons of guys running up the beach to their cars! This amazing planet is powerful down here right now!!! Hay que respetarlo! 16 second power swell coming tomorrow, early in the season but looks like the day of the year to me to hype it more than it needs, hope we don’t die 🙂

Colors of Sam, awesome swell!

Wednesday October 6th at Wildo, the Sam Swell Continues… Photos by M-Dub:

This is Pete from Jacksonville. He looks tough but he’s super cool. He’s a father of 4 little kids so he dyed his mowhawk bright pink so they would laugh at him. Def a guy who does not take himself too seriously.



Notes on Wildo and trips to PR this winter:

A lot of people think Wildo is soft, some call it Wildo-Mush. It only barrels in sections if the period is very long. Wildo amplifies NE swell and it’s so spread out that there is space for most everyone this time of year. Still, I never ride shortboard there, always a Mid bc it makes it easier to catch so I suggest a high volume board if you want to surf it. Wildo can be world class and a very long wave with multiple turns for even entry level surfers. It has a great left also, no wonder it’s so popular. I have been surfing there a lot bc that’s where my clients like to surf and it’s also Julie’s favorite wave. The road in is rough but not too bad and there are waves up at Ruins and Crap House but they are best surfed with high volume boards also. I surfed a wave between Crap House and Wildo with James that was so fun and nobody ever surfs it so keep an eye on that…

Another big low is headed in Sunday and more LP swell for next week as the Caribbean is on an epic fall run of swell…

You need a negative COVID test(CVS has them) or a Vax Card to enter. PR stakes the pandemic super serious, masks are required everywhere.

There has been a shortage of rental cars also since the pandemic started so make sure your car is guaranteed. Mid winter will be dicey for finding a car. Stay at a place walking distance to waves and get rides carpool if you have too. I can try and help also if you want to hire me for guide work, thanks! info@aurasurf.com


The Compound

Check out Whitney’s Restaurant on Longboat Key.

Need an attorney that understands you? Check in with Scott.

Thursday 7am 10/7/21 Puerto Rico Surf report from the Sam swell.-The last few years the best surf all year has been in early fall from hurricane swells. Teddy, Paulette, Larry and Sam. I know these are the best swells of the year. Yes, we will get some good swells during the winter but these hurricane swells are different, just super fun, surf all day, not too crowded kind of surf. I’ve been trying to get my kids waves too and it’s been at the top of their scale so we’ve had some close calls with big rocks but todo bien, nothing bad has happened. Yesterday morning, I surfed Wildo with Pete (Julie stayed home to help mom). It was still 6-8ft on sets and guys were breaking boards agin on the biggest sets. I was riding a 7’0 gun that Bat made me last year. It worked perfect. After that sesh I shot photos for awhile and then we headed down to the Mix. The Mix was really fun but less consistent. Pete got some crazy good waves. I wish I had my action cam out in the water with me. We drifted from the top of the Mix to the very bottom section before the beach down to Pressure Point. There was some current, it has been windy trades after 10am. Fighting the current to stay in the peak of the lower bowl at the Mix I could not believe how much pain I was in- everything hurt, my ribs so sore, arms noodles, neck and back screaming for rest. So today I’m resting… Saturday looks like the best day of the fall so far with 16 second swell headed in from Extra Tropo Sam. More guys are coming from Florida so I’m taking some time to rest and get ready. I surfed 7 days straight. I thought I was in surf shape but it must be the age…

October looks really good for surf in the Caribbean.
I surfed an uncrowded spot with my kids on Sunday afternoon, surfed **** with Julie and Cassie- head high and powerful, top of their limit. They did great, we all got worked 😆 Try and make it down if you can…

info@aurasurf.com