Daily Archives: June 20, 2018

Summer 2018 and surf board talk

Lets talk twins…

WFL Tuesday: Wow, August is flattening out! Doldrums and horse latitudes, nothing going on. I would say check the EC forecast but they were not looking too good to me either. Good time to get away. How sick is Centro? If you had a free ticket between Bocas in the Caribe and El Sal on the Pacific, which would you choose? A buddy just got back from Nica and scored big time, nobody around with conflict going on in that country. Boards- So with no waves now till late August let’s talk about boards. I’ve started riding mid lengths now bc the waves where I live in Rincon are so slopey. The only time I ride shorty is when it’s LP and good. If it’s waist to chest and not barreling the mid length is so fun and kind of straightens out my style and makes it so easy to paddle and catch waves early down in the Caribbean and it’s not like I’m so rad on short-board that anything I want to do on 5’10 I can do on a 7’0. It would be different in dumpy beach break. Which brings us to twin fins. I still love twins. I have 2, a RNF and a Mod Retro, love em both… I am off keel fins and onto AM twins and it makes a huge difference. Twins are the best boards for skatey flow. Twins have no drag, they just fly on the wave. Have you seen Surfline’s guide to twin fins? That is a meaty guide that will take awhile to get thru but how good does Josh Kerr looks on a twin fin? Sick! Have a great day dreaming of boards… Check out all the sick twins at the Compound!

Leaning into the RNF at Spanish Wall during a hurricane swell in PR.

Twin finning in AMI. Photo: Mo.

This is a 7’0 at Domes in January.

Tropical Waves.

Friday 8/31 in Isabela: Really fun waves, surprising. So good to get back in the water after a long drought and my 1st time going to Isabela all summer. This is ENE trade swell 3.6ft at 8 seconds and 10-15knt trades. SS was bigger than Jobos but Julie got some long ones at Jobos, stoked.


Julieta at Jobos.

set wave

Secret Spot was really fun, could have surfed for hours but Julie wanted to surf Jobos so no worries. Maybe head up here next week for the storm swell.


Puerto Rico 100%