Category Archives: Days with Waves

The Day After

Saturday DP Below:

This west swell was 6ft at 10 so maybe half this size today? 5ft at 9 with a super low tide…

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Saturday 12/26 5am X Mas Day-After Surf Forecast: On the buoys it looks like solid swell but there are 2 issues this am- 1. The tide is supper low so that 5ft at 9 second west swell is getting shoaled out all the way to shore in most areas. 2. It’s really cold, most areas have temps in the 40’s and with a NE wind at 15 makes it feel in the 30’s.
What to do? I would just go- any period over 8 seconds means the small surf is going to have some juice, hopefully you dried your suit out the night before and/or you have a gallon of hot water, some booties and you know a low tide spot. If your not a polar bear and you are currently sleeping in your bed that’s good also more waves for the penguins with you not being there. Comments have been going to a Paypal page- I did not do that, so weird trying to resolve it… Surf story below…

Forecast for the week of 12/21 Synopsis: A cool front has passed. A stronger front will move thru late Thursday.
Monday waist high range with N and NNW winds.
Tuesday 12/22 knee high leftovers with NE winds.
Wednesday calm
Thursday Calm in the am building surf late afternoon, waist high and choppy.
Friday: Chest high WNW surf with NNW winds at 20. Watch for possible land-breeze/favorable winds am.
Saturday 1-2ft leftovers with NE winds.

Joey Steven’s at Peaks. Not sure how this spot breaks now but back in the 80’s it had long steep walls on cold fronts, mostly rights, pretty dumpy but a great wave to learn on. You could really hit the lip on this wave. The best rides here were long rights that surprisingly connected all the way down the beach to where you would have to get out and walk back up to the take-off spot.

Good waves yesterday… I found this old photo from Christmas Day 1985 and wanted to share it with you guys along with a little back story. A low hit the gulf and lifted out, NE winds followed with west swell. This was Indian Shores in Pinellas near the high school we went to. At 1 point in the 80’s they made knee pads for surfing so yes, Joey is wearing knee pads and riding a really cool WRV, probably 5’10. I took this photo with a little Kodak water camera, film of course. Joey was/is a great surfer. He lived a couple blocks from me in Seminole and we rode our bikes to Indian Shores with our boards under our arms. We were 15 yr old groms, only surfing a couple years and though the back section of this wave looks closed out the surf was great this day and the best waves we had ever seen up to that point on the gulf. Strong swell with offshore winds. It was our first attempts at getting tubed. We surfed all day long… Strong sense of nostalgia with this one of what was happening in our culture at that time: Purple Zinka, The Cure Standing on a Beach, INXS, Checker-board Vans, Vision skate boards and painter hats, the 80’s were so cool.

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You guys have always taken such good care of me and my family know that your donations go right to our families expenses so we appreciate it very much. And I will also try and do an extra good job with the report making it early! Staying on top of the forecast through the summer…